As my readers will recall, I have been describing a visit to Rome, focusing on the entirely walkable old city. I spend most of my time traveling around the Pacific Rim region, but once in a while Europe sings her siren song.
After a leisurely buffet breakfast of rustic bread, cheese, ham, hard-boiled eggs, yogurt, fruit, pastries, and juice (I had to sample a bit of everything) at the charming and conveniently located Hotel Cosmopolita, Michael and I walked toward the Pantheon. At least, we thought we were headed for the Pantheon, but after finding an obelisk and some churches, we took photos of each other and adjusted our course. The result of the accidental detour was that we came upon the famous Pantheon building a few minutes later almost head-on. I had been watching my footing on the cobblestones (Rome is covered in cobble stones and I dislike them very much) when Michael told me to look up. I did, and gasped, “There it is!” (Why do people, myself included, state the bleeding obvious when excited?) Surrounded by newer and taller buildings, the Pantheon stands in a large square behind a fountain and surrounded by restaurants (one of which is McDonalds, where we did NOT eat), so it can’t be seen from a long distance.
The Pantheon was designed and constructed without the use of modern equipment, Arabic numbers, or even the concept of zero. When we walked inside, my eyes were on the oculus, or hole in the roof. After seeing that ceiling on public television countless times, I had been looking forward to seeing it for myself. It was worth the anticipation, a round window onto the sky, 30 feet across and many stories up. The skylight of the gods. The Pantheon (pan= all, theo= god) was home to all of the Roman gods, but was later converted into a Catholic church. This ancient pagan temple in old Rome was modeled after the Turkish yurts in central Asia.
I’ll never forget my first look at the oldest building in Rome that has been in constant use since it’s construction in 27 B.C. Even with the front columns being shorter than originally intended, it’s an impressive building. We walked around, then sat nearby and soaked up the atmosphere. We watched the crowds of tourists, vendors, children and dogs, and philosophized about the rise and fall of great empires.
Insider tips: Grabbing a bite
One of Rome's best gelaterias is just off the square that fronts the Pantheon. Grab a cone of delicious gelato for only a couple of Euros and sit on the steps facing the front of the Pantheon in the early evening. It's a great way to end the day or to relax before dinner. If you want my favorite gelato flavor, order fragola (strawberry). If you stand facing the front of the Pantheon, look to your right to find a wonderful little deli and bakery. Their simple sandwiches made a tasty and inexpensive meal. If you can't decide what to eat first, try a mortadella sandwich, a sweet ricotta-filled raviolo, and a bottle of aqua minerale. They also sell fabulous olive oil.
When to go, or when not to go
Two important things to remember for anyone visiting Italy for the first time: May first is Labor Day in many countries, including Italy, and most restaurants and attractions (including the beautiful Pantheon) are closed. Also, August is very hot, leading much of Europe to go away on holiday that month, so it's not a great time to visit. Spring can be rainy, but beautiful--just bring your umbrella. Fall is also beautiful. June and July are hot and high-priced.
