Rome: The Pantheon

As my readers will recall, I have been describing a visit to Rome, focusing on the entirely walkable old city. I spend most of my time traveling around the Pacific Rim region, but once in a while Europe sings her siren song.

After a leisurely buffet breakfast of rustic bread, cheese, ham, hard-boiled eggs, yogurt, fruit, pastries, and juice (I had to sample a bit of everything) at the charming and conveniently located Hotel Cosmopolita, Michael and I walked toward the Pantheon. At least, we thought we were headed for the Pantheon, but after finding an obelisk and some churches, we took photos of each other and adjusted our course. The result of the accidental detour was that we came upon the famous Pantheon building a few minutes later almost head-on. I had been watching my footing on the cobblestones (Rome is covered in cobble stones and I dislike them very much) when Michael told me to look up. I did, and gasped, “There it is!” (Why do people, myself included, state the bleeding obvious when excited?) Surrounded by newer and taller buildings, the Pantheon stands in a large square behind a fountain and surrounded by restaurants (one of which is McDonalds, where we did NOT eat), so it can’t be seen from a long distance.

The Pantheon was designed and constructed without the use of modern equipment, Arabic numbers, or even the concept of zero.  When we walked inside, my eyes were on the oculus, or hole in the roof.  After seeing that ceiling on public television countless times, I had been looking forward to seeing it for myself.  It was worth the anticipation, a round window onto the sky, 30 feet across and many stories up.  The skylight of the gods. The Pantheon (pan= all, theo= god) was home to all of the Roman gods, but was later converted into a Catholic church. This ancient pagan temple in old Rome was modeled after the Turkish yurts in central Asia.

I’ll never forget my first look at the oldest building in Rome that has been in constant use since it’s construction in 27 B.C. Even with the front columns being shorter than originally intended, it’s an impressive building. We walked around, then sat nearby and soaked up the atmosphere. We watched the crowds of tourists, vendors, children and dogs, and philosophized about the rise and fall of great empires.

Insider tips: Grabbing a bite

One of Rome's best gelaterias is just off the square that fronts the Pantheon. Grab a cone of delicious gelato for only a couple of Euros and sit on the steps facing the front of the Pantheon in the early evening. It's a great way to end the day or to relax before dinner. If you want my favorite gelato flavor, order fragola (strawberry). If you stand facing the front of the Pantheon, look to your right to find a wonderful little deli and bakery. Their simple sandwiches made a tasty and inexpensive meal. If you can't decide what to eat first, try a mortadella sandwich, a sweet ricotta-filled raviolo, and a bottle of aqua minerale. They also sell fabulous olive oil.

When to go, or when not to go

Two important things to remember for anyone visiting Italy for the first time: May first is Labor Day in many countries, including Italy, and most restaurants and attractions (including the beautiful Pantheon) are closed. Also, August is very hot, leading much of Europe to go away on holiday that month, so it's not a great time to visit. Spring can be rainy, but beautiful--just bring your umbrella. Fall is also beautiful. June and July are hot and high-priced.

Finding Cicely

Cicely is not exactly a common name, and that may be one of the great understatements of the year. In fact, I have only met two other ladies named Cicely in all of my travels. The name is actually a derivative of Cecelia, the ancient Roman goddess of music and eventual alternative name of Muse, so it's a name steeped in history and lore. Thus, what follows is an homage to some of the other people, places, and things named Cicely:

Cicely the Actress

Cicely Tyson (born December 19, 1933) is an awesome American actress. A successful stage actress, Tyson is also known for numerous appearances in film and television. She is particularly well known for her roll in the television series Roots. Her numerous movie credits include Fried Green Tomatoes, and Diary of a Mad Black Woman.

Cicely the Fictitious Town

Cicely, Alaska is the fictional setting of the television series Northern Exposure (1990-1995). The show was actually filmed in Roslyn, Washington. It received a total of 57 award nominations during its five-year run and won 27, including the 1992 Primetime Emmy Award for Outstanding Drama Series, two additional Primetime Emmy Awards, four Creative Arts Emmy Awards, and two Golden Globes. I found the t-shirt pictured above on Zazzle.

Cicely the Herb

Cicely or Sweet Cicely (Myrrhis odorata) is a perennial plant belonging to the family Apiaceae, native to Central Europe; it is the sole species in the genus Myrrhis. Its leaves are sometimes used as a herb, with a rather strong taste reminiscent of anise; it is used mainly in Germany and Scandinavia.

Cicely the Doctor

Dame Cicely Saunders (June 22, 1918–July 14, 2005) founded the modern hospice and started a worldwide movement to provide compassionate care for the dying. A nurse, social worker and doctor, she established new methods of pain control and a multi-faceted, holistic approach to care giving. This led to the development of a new medical specialty, palliative care, and the contemporary hospice.

Cicely the Social Scientist

Cicely Marston is a senior lecturer in social science at the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine.

Cicely the Artist/Illustrator

Cicely Mary Barker (28 June 1895 – 16 February 1973) was an English illustrator best known for a series of fantasy illustrations depicting fairies and flowers. Her earliest professional work included greeting card and juvenile magazine illustrations, and her first book, Flower Fairies of the Spring, was published in 1923.

Cicely the Irish Catering Company

Sweet Cicely is the name of a catering company based in Dublin, Ireland.

Best Pizzas in San Francisco

My favorite pizza in the San Francisco Bay Area is made by the winner of over 100 "best pizza" awards, Zachary's Chicago Pizza Inc. in Berkeley. They also have a location in Oakland, but I usually head to the Berkeley location near the top of Solano Avenue and order a deep-dish pizza full of pepperoni, mushrooms, and marinated artichoke hearts swimming in their chunky homemade tomato sauce. If you don't like to wait, call ahead. They also offer pizzas half-baked so you can pick them up early, take them home, and finish cooking them in your own oven. The pies are enormous and the leftovers are delicious for breakfast, too, hot or cold. Oh man, now I've gone and made myself hungry.

Moving on, CBS San Francisco recently did a survey of pizza joints in the city, so here is a summary and links. I haven't tried all of these myself, but plan to. Good pizza is always worth stopping for.

According to food blogger Joanne Boston, who compiled the list and descriptions below, "Pies in San Francisco are creative. Most places rely on local farms and purveyors for their toppings resulting in tasty and unique combinations. Let’s take a look at some of the City’s prime spots for premium pizza pies."

Flour + Water

2401 Harrison St.
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 826-7000
Flour + Water
Food so good there wasn’t room for even Steve Jobs to have a seat. Perfectly blistered crust from their Italian 900 degree Valoriani oven is a perfect platform for their choice toppings such as mozzerrella de bufala, eggplant, and even heirloom tomatoes. Who said pizza can’t be classy? Good enough for a million-dollar man, most definitely.

Gialina

2842 Diamond St.
San Francisco, CA 94131
(415) 239-8500
Gialina
The “Atomica” Neapolitan-style pizza covered with tomato sauce, mushrooms, mozzarella, red onions and chilies will keep you coming back for more. To ease the heat from the spice on the pizza, order the chocolate hazelnut dessert pizza topped with cool mascarpone cheese. Since no reservations are accepted, come early – it is still well worth the wait.

Little Star

400 Valencia St.
San Francisco, CA 94103
(415) 551-7827
Little Star Pizza
Big appetite? Little Star’s Chicago-style deep dish pizzas are a cure for your hunger. Go for the “Brass Monkey” which is a secret menu item – spinach, ricotta and feta cheeses, mushrooms, onions, garlic, and sausage layered on a buttery crust. Best believe you‘ll be reaching for more than one slice. I must add a slice of news, here. Little Star has a newly opened location on lower Solano Avenue in Albany. That's near Berkeley in the east bay. Rumor has it that they give Zachary's a run for their money, so you know I'll have to check it out soon! --Cicely

Pauline’s Pizza

260 Valencia Street
San Francisco, CA 94103
(415) 552-2050
Pauline’s Pizza Pie
A friendly neighborhood joint that welcomes people of all walks of life from kids to hipsters to health-conscious folks. If you want a true “California” pizza, this is the place to go. Dive into their signature pesto pizza with verdant basil, garlic, and pine nuts.

Pizzeria Delfina

2406 California Street
San Francisco, CA 94115
(415) 440-11893611
18th Street
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 437-6800
Pizzaria Delfina
The “Salsiccia” with homemade fennel sausage is what got many San Franciscan’s loving thin-crust pizza. A more casual joint compared to its sister Delfina Restaurant next door, Pizzeria Delfina is the perfect spot to people watch, drink a glass of wine, and mange on their delicious pies, of course. Both locations, one in the Mission and one in Pacific Heights, are neighborhood gems.

Tommaso’s

1042 Kearny Street
San Francisco, CA 94133
(415) 398-9696
Tommaso’s
This is the epitome of old school North Beach flavor since it is the home of San Francisco’s oldest wood-fired pizza oven. The oven gives each pizza pie a crispy crust and smoky tone. Try all of their pizzas, they are all delicious! Okay, if we had to choose, go for the Italian pepperoni – classic with that addicting spice.

A Roman Holiday, Part One

The Roman Forum

"All roads indeed lead to Rome, but theirs also is a more mystical destination, some bourne of which no traveller knows the name, some city, they all seem to hint, even more eternal." --Richard Le Gallienne

After passing through numerous security checks with our shoes off in San Francisco, my travel partner and I were somewhat surprised at the ease of entering Italy. An immigration officer stamped our passports without looking up from his desk, and then the customs official waved us through without even pausing in her languid conversation with a porter.

We hailed a cab (or the cab driver hailed us) and sped off to our hotel: the charming little Cosmopolita. Our driver careened through traffic with no distinct lanes in his big manual transmission Mercedes cab. Most of the time he was twisted around in the driver’s seat to face us, pointing out various sites and explaining bits of Italian history while steering with one hand. Next time, I'll take the Metro (subway) from the airport.

We arrived hours before check-in time and in the rain, but the Cosmopolita Hotel staff took it in stride. They stored our bags and gave us a map of the area, pointing out that the ancient Roman Forum, Coliseum, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, Capitol Building and Metro station were all within easy walking distance. I asked if there was a shop nearby where we could buy an umbrella, which was the one thing I had forgotten to pack. Alesandro (the unofficial King of Front Desk) happily said, “Yes, you’ve found it,” and handed us a giant golf umbrella . Tucked under our new umbrella and operating on pure adrenaline, we struck out in the direction of the Roman forum.

The forum turned out to be an easy five-minute stroll from the hotel, as promised. Stone steps lead down to the excavated forum, which is several stories below the surrounding buildings, and by the time we reached the last step the rain had stopped and the clouds were beginning to break up. What a sight the Roman forum was with the clouds peeling apart and brilliant shafts of sunlight striking the ancient stones.

To Be Continued...

A Roman Holiday, Overview

"Everyone soon or late comes round by Rome." --Robert Browning

Roman Holiday is one of my favorite Audrey Hepburn films and Rome is one my favorite cities for a week of dining and strolling. Long lunches, gelato, and pizza in the seat of one of history's great empires-- what's not to love?

Favorite Guidebook:

Rick Steves' Rome 2011 is like having a personal tour guide in your pocket or purse. It's also a book that opens doors, literally. Many restaurants and shops have special offers and freebies only for people carrying the unmistakable blue books penned by Rick. Skip down to "Favorite Restaurant" below for details.

Favorite Time of Year:

My last visit to the city of Rome was in the late Spring, but it's hard to beat the cooler temperatures of the fall. That's why October is many peoples' favorite time to hang out in Rome. Avoid the peak of summer if you can because of the heat. Italy essentially shuts down in August.

Favorite Attraction:

The jury is still out on that one! There are so many to love. And I'm not just talking about gelaterias...honestly!

Favorite Restaurant:

Cafe dello Studente is my standout favorite place for a long lunch in Rome. The sidewalk tables have a view of the Roman Colosseum and the lasagna is divine. Don't miss it. Rick writes that travelers holding one of his guidebooks can expect to receive a royal welcome from Simona and her husband, but that is an understatement. We walked in and she yelled “Rrrick Steves’!” with the rolled “r” sound and eagerly showed us to a table. As usual, all of the tables were placed on the sidewalk. We read in the book that most cafes have two prices: one for purchasing food to go, and a higher charge for sitting at a table. Real estate isn’t cheap. However, with the book, we got the table for the to-go price, some free appetizers, free drinks, and a baseball cap.

Favorite Travel Tip:

As always, I advocate traveling with carry-on bags, only. One thing I’ve learned over the years is the value of traveling without any checked baggage whenever possible. It never fails to save tons of time and hassle. If the thought of not being able to pack more clothes than you need for your trip sounds like too much to bear, try imagining the joy and freedom of walking straight through customs and immigration and beginning your holiday while your fellow travelers jockey for position around groaning and lurching baggage carousels. The fun of strolling past that mess is definitely worth occasionally needing to wash a pair of socks in a hotel bathroom sink. Most people don't return from a trip abroad saying, "Next time I'm going to bring MORE luggage!" Luggage is called luggage because it's not fun to lug around.

More to Come:

Stay tuned for journal entries from the trip! I'll type them up as soon as I have time. Meanwhile, if you'll excuse me, there is a pizza with my name on it.

Watch For Koalas on Roads at Night

This is my favorite Australian road sign. I snapped the photo during a drive through southeastern Australia along the Great Ocean Road, just a few hours north of Melbourne.

Koalas live almost entirely on eucalyptus leaves which they spend three of their five active hours munching. Eucalyptus leaves are low in protein, high in indigestible substances, and contain phenolic and terpene compounds that are toxic to most species. Like wombats and sloths, the koala has a very low metabolic rate for a mammal and rests motionless for about 16 to 18 hours a day, sleeping most of that time. They usually wake up to eat at night, sometimes crossing roads to reach adjacent trees. Sadly, it has been documented that about 4,000 koalas are killed each year in Australia by dogs and cars. A drowsy animal that crosses roads to feed at night necessitates the cautionary sign. So, if you ever drive through southeastern Australia, please watch for koalas on roads at night!

If you want to see koalas in the Australian wild, they can sometimes be spotted sleeping in trees along the Great Ocean Road. Here are a few more specific possible locations:

Hawks Nest and Tea Gardens Area
Kennett River
Raymond Island

Melbourne, Australia

Some time ago, I spent a fabulous year living in Melbourne, the capital city of the Australian state of Victoria, so here are a few tips for anyone who wants to visit. It's a terrific city with a cosmopolitan culture and excellent public transit, so getting around on trains and trams is easier than trying to drive.

Hand-painted lamp post with flowers and a tram in Melbourne

Melbourne lies near the southeastern tip of the Australian continent. Including the surrounding suburbs, the greater Melbourne area spans the distance from Port Phillip Bay to the Dandenong Mountain Range. The central business district (CBD) is very compact and easily accessible by the extensive network of trains and trams. Better yet, the transit ticketing system is entirely integrated and prices very affordable, so a visitor doesn't have to buy separate tickets to ride different transit forms around the city.

Melbourne was once voted the "world's most livable city"in part because it is so walkable and has so many artistic and unique buildings. The buildings and public art make it a great destination for architects and aficionados. Part of the CBD is for pedestrian traffic only, creating a lovely indoor-outdoor mall.

When to Go

Map of Australia

Because of its location in the Southern hemisphere, Australia's seasons are the opposite of those in North America and Europe. Forgive me if this seems like an obvious thing to write, but I've seen many prospective travelers to the land down under overlook that little fact. It puts the Christmas holiday season smack in the middle of summer in Australia and makes June through August bitterly cold in Melbourne. Australia's summer (November though February) is my favorite time to visit locations in Victoria (such as Melbourne) and New South Wales (including Sydney). Celebrating New Year's Eve on a hot summer night can be great fun for those of us accustomed to spending it in the freezing cold. On the other hand, Australia's winter can be a good time to visit more northern spots such as Queensland and the Great Barrier Reef. If you want to visit Ayer's Rock in the red center of the continent, going in the winter is essential because the desert is much too hot and dry for summer travel.

Passports and Visas

Most people visiting Australia for a vacation must have a passport and an Australian tourist visa. A tourist visa is free for a visit of less than three month's time and can be obtained through your nearest Australian Consulate. If a consulate isn't nearby, you can apply for and receive a visa through the mail or even online. Citizens of 34 different countries can now request an Australian tourist visa for a short stay online from the Australian Visa Bureau. Click the link to see if one of those countries is yours. Also, the Australian government has an online visa wizard that serves as a great starting point.

Other Factoids

Weapons, drugs, plants, seeds, flowers, and food are not, not, not allowed into Australia. I knew someone once who had canned salmon from Alaska confiscated by the customs officials. They not only confiscated the can of fish, but also the box in which it was packed and all of the other contents of the box.

I have never found a need to rent a car when visiting Australia, but if you want to be sure to apply for an international driving permit before going and remember that Australians drive on the left side of the road.

Australia uses 240 volts and electrical plugs shaped unlike those in the United States. Bring a plug adapter AND power converter or simply don't bring electrical appliances. Personally, I prefer the second option.

The currency is the Australian dollar, which is currently trading at .95 US dollars, so the current exchange rate is very close to a one to one ratio. To check if the rate has changed, here is my favorite currency conversion website. You usually get a better rate when changing money at a bank before your trip than at the airport after you land at your destination, so plan accordingly

Traveler's Tales

Coming Soon*...
Welcome to my long-awaited blog on international travel. I hope you enjoy the forthcoming tales and tips from my trips to various places around the globe. Posts will not be made on a regular schedule, so please check back periodically to see if a new story or photo has been added. Of course, readers are also welcome to follow and/or subscribe.
 
*The first post is up!  

Melbourne, Australia
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